The Encyclopedia of Henna
Stratum Corneum: 
Why are there places where the  henna stain never gets dark and disappears fast?
Catherine Cartwright-Jones c 2003
Kent State University
Very thin stratum corneum will never take henna stain as well as very thick stratum corneum. In thin areas of stratum cornum, cells go quickly from being living, flexible skin cells to shedding from the surface as dead cells.  These cells do not have time to become corneated.  Your eyelid has a very thin layer of stratum corneum, and that skin is soft and flexible.  Your heel has a very thick layer of stratum corneum and that area becomes hard and dry. Your heels may be highly corneated.  Henna does not stain thin, moist, living tissue well.  It stains hard, thick, dry, dead, corneated cells. Therefore, henna will never stain dark, or last long on areas of thin stratum corneum.

The thinnest areas of stratum corneum are:
Foreheads, eyelids, cheeks, noses, lips, ears, penises, scalps and necks. 
These areas have, on average, 6 to 12 cell layers of stratum corneum.
Henna stains in these areas last a few days to a week and will never be very dark.

Medium areas of stratum corneum are:
Shoulder, chest, back, buttock, back, belly, and upper arm. 
These areas have, on average, 12 to 14 cell layers of stratum corneum.
Henna stains in these areas will last 7 to 10 days, and may have medium rusty color.

Thick areas of stratum corneum are:
Thighs, lower legs and lower arms.
These areas have, on average, 14 to 18 cell layers of stratum corneum.
Henna stains will last 10 days to two weeks and may get to a chocolate color.

Thicker layers of stratum corneum are:
"dorsum", backs, of hands, and "dorsum", tops, of feet.
These areas have, on average, 25 to 30 cell layers of stratum corneum.
Henna stains on the dorsum of hands and feet may get to a dark chocolate color, and last nearly three weeks.

References: 

"Number of Cell Layers of the Stratum Corneum in Normal Skin - relationship to the anatomical location on the body, age, sex and physical parameters"
Zhen Ya-Xian, Takaki Suetake, Hachiro Tagani
Archive of Dermatology Research, 1999, Issue 291: 555-559; Springer-Verlag, 1999

"Skin, the Human Fabric"
Doug Podolsky, US News Books, Washington DC, 1982

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Henna pattern in photograph above from Henna, the Joyous Body Art

 
*"Henna, the Joyous Body Art" 
the Encyclopedia of Henna
Catherine Cartwright-Jones c 2000 
registered with the US Library of Congress
TXu 952-968