Re: New Skin vs. lemon/sugar water (lots more)
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Posted by Catherine Cartwright Jones on November 22, 1999 at 14:23:28:
In Reply to: New Skin vs. lemon/sugar water (lots more) posted by Amy on November 22, 1999 at 07:04:27:
You might compare what you're doing to the techniques at the link below. That technique, with good henna, gives me deep burgundy to near black on palms and soles, and rich browns on the rest of the skin. If you are not using lemon juice in your paste, you will definitely have to have it in the fixer to get a dye release. The purpose of any fixer is to keep the henna firmly in place long enough to get the hennotannic acid to stain the skin. NS and a wrap makes your skin sweatty so your perspiration rehydrates the henna so it stays slightly moist and perfectly in place for as many hours as you have the wrap on. The color improvement is really dramatic with and without a wrap. The wrap also raises the temperature of the henna on the surface of your skin, so you get a much darker color. Henna most efficiently releastes dye at ph 5.5 or more sour. That is why many people use lemon juice to mix their henna rather than water. The dye release over 12 to 24 hours is far greater. You can watch the dye release under a microscope, and count the brown dots as they appear. Henna with water releases some brown dots but not many. Lemon juice releases brown dots like crazy.
Use any kind of bowl you want. I use a plastic butter tub with a snap lid. Some people carry on a great deal about henna without having bothered to do side-by-side tests or ever once thought to look up how henna works in terms of heat, chemistry, and how it actually interacts with skin. Don't let me get started on that one! If you are working a big design, and your henna paste is beginning to crack and flake (there are ways to help that by making the paste a little stickier) nail it back down to the skin with one or other thing. No point in it falling off. There's nothing wrong with using lemon-sugar for this.... but it's slower than NS and you're more apt to dislodge bits of your pattern..... Curiously cnough, there is no mention of lemon sugar to crust henna anywhere in the literature until very, very recently. Wrapping seems to have been preferred, along with reapplication of the design. Also, there is no mention of euc or mehlabiya oil before the '80s in any henna mix anywhere. I don't find any improvement in henna stain when I use them, and they give me blisters, so I don't bother with them. After 6 or 8 hours under a wrap you can get rid of your henna any way you want. At that point it's done it's job. Keep it on yourself as long as you can, though. First chance you get, spend a long evening or 3 going through all the archives on this forum! There's some stuff here that will help. If you want a full technique rant, in 4 part harmony, let me know, I have one, jpgs and all.
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